Tuesday 28 September 2010

Don't mess with my nerves!

I missed Yoga yesterday, but as it turned out this morning, there will be no more training sessions for us. It's over. Without hesitating much I knocked on the priest's doors (arranging his arranged marriage is smoothening out, last week he dropped in to evaluate his future wife's family and dowry.), he unlocked the ceremonial room and I did Yoga by myself. I felt immature and cold :)

Anyways, we had a "green" lunch on Monday, consisting of lentils and beans:


















Then, we visited a temple which is next doors to our modest accommodation:


Finally, in Bhuntar, got a few more pictures and headed for Kalheli.


As we've lost Bashing, the more and more time is spent in this ashram. And this time the children were slightly bored by us: watching Smackdown (Undertaker vs. Kane - I enjoyed that one as well!), Bollywood hits with Govindah and doing homework.

Last day, we awarded them with a few nicely printed and laminated scripts. Surprisingly today none of them were present, so I lost my patience easily, shouted. Imagine me exploding on them. BJ calmed me down. BJ is a 12 year old boy. Just like the majority of orphanage kids in India, he has both parents, who take him back for a holiday season and summer. Instinctively I am convinced that the reason behind the low girls population in orphanages is due to female infanticide. Staggering numbers, over 10 million each year. The boy dreams of becoming a police driver and attending a +2 school in the English medium. Hindi schools are cheap, only 100 Rs. per year, compared to English ones 800 Rs. It's heart brekaing to realize that the child's future is determined by $15.

In the end, they have lost my new ball from the Juggling collection! (^ ^), on top of that we inadvertently refused to eat the dinner there, which my stomach regretted ever after. We'll manage them better next time.

Sunday 26 September 2010

Third visit to Paramita's house, rehearsing at Kalheli and Dalphur's song competition

On Saturday we visited Paramita's home once more. I was really nervous and erratic that day, and guess at whom my anger was released? True, Anine. I kept on blaming her for disrespecting time, writing too much stuff on Facebook and walking slower than I did. In short, I was in the "ass-hole mode". All we needed to do wasno less than editing the script, making the letters bigger, cropping lines seperately for each person, etc. Yet, our dynamic duo ended up quarelling in no time, just in front of Joy (husband) and Lavania (Paramita's daughter), whose father (a famous photogapher) just came back from Stockholm and contributed some "utterly amazing" stories from Scandinavia.

I felt fed up with my partner, strangers praising her country, me introducing myself as Sergey from Russia. Listen, I grabbed Lavania by her hand and brought her to play. We played badminton and table tennis, which she either was not familiar with, or a lousy little girl child player. Being the latter, I supposed we could go to the blackboard and "draw". I taught her how to draw a cube: "Draw 1 quadrat, draw another on top of it, connect the edges." I taught her some logarithms as well, of which Joy was really pleased. I congratulated him with his daughter finihing the high school mathematics course at the age of 7!

You cannot imagine how big a relief do children bring to the irritated and angry people, as I was before. Accompanied by paramita we went to Kalheli and rehearsed the skit again. Our boys are spitfires and hyperactive, only Diwan being the omniscient leader of this hound gang :)

We gave him Lakshmi's part, it's around 200 words, making him the main figure in our modest play. God provide Diwan with memory and ating skills, we'll do the rest! Paramita taught them how to sing an "another" Nationalistic song, God should reserve her a buqiet of flowers and candies. Speaking of which, Northern India is the hell on earth for the chocolote lovers. Sparse chocolate resources and "cultural" vegetarianism (in europe it is rather "popular" to say the least) are the key factors separating our cultures. So, I got a Kit Kat.

Worth mentioning, after making chapatis the day before, we felt well accustomed in anat asharam's kitchen, and on Saturday we saw the kids frying a derivative of chapati, namely, "Roti". It was oily and greasy, once submerged into boiling fat it would inflate like a balloon and collapse afterwards. I was fascinated by its nutritional supremacy. Hence, we stayed for a dinner. I got Alu (potatoes) in the tomato soup. Therefore, AluTomato! Kids and the managment were heartedly surprised that we loved orphanage's food. So went on and explained them how much would this menu cost in the European restaurants!



On Sunday we planned to establish further contacts with the blind and Bhrat Bharati (Bharati - means "Indian") schools. We knew it was in Dalphur, but where exactly? The bus came handy with the nod of his head, and guess where did we end up? In the mid way between Kullu and Bunthat, some 5 km from Bhrat Bharati. We promised to work on our gullibility, and never trust bus conductors again! We hitchiked to the place with a beautiful family car, whereas the father was blessed with 4 beautiful daughters. He seemed unhappy. But one of them was particularly attractive and talkative, a cumputer netwroks student. In Lithuania computer science sill stands as the last bastillia for male dominated student bodies, radically reverse situation is here in India.

We followed one group of 20-30 nicely dressed up girls and ended up in a big out doors singing competition. School representatives from all around the Himachal Pradesh (or simply HP) were present. Occasionally we felt 6 thousand eyes staring at the two of us, but how much joy and interest we received from those young nice girls! They taught us ingenious games with the pebbles found right there in the grass and someHindi as well. Panch baje giro - it's five o'clock! Tomorrow I'll go to Yoga, and Anine will try playing Sitara with the girls' teacher. Her name is Flower.

In the end we got ice-cream and corn in Bhuntar.

Friday 24 September 2010

Me ne anat ashram me Chapati banay !!!



(Yesterday I made Chapatis at the orphanage)

We were supposed to work on the theater skit, yet some of the most talented pearls were away for a badminton competition in Kullu. So watched BBC Life on Mammals and talked about..mammals!

Afterwards we were invited to the kitchen to make Chapatis. God gracious, making Chapatis is a laborious task.


Tuesday 21 September 2010

Yoga and Herbage

This Saturday, just before going to Basing and hearing the terrible news, we paid a visit to masala/spice shop. It’s run by an astounding couple, both late into their 60’s, still having a crow black hair. Besides spices one could find anything ranging from butane gas to Nestle milk powder, of which I am a great fan myself!

He belongs to the active intelligence of Kullu town, together with several elder family heads runs a school, serves morning prayer at 8am and does Yoga on a daily basis.

He’s taught us how difficult it is to find a partner in India and rebel against family’s favorite pick. As a matter of fact, we are not aware of any divorced couples in this down, married people are smiling and helping each other. This comes at a price, whereas a woman has to play a submissive role and man is her “God”. Do we remember our grand-parents marrying in the same way? The smiling shop owner stops doing so once he hears about the US. “It’s a self-destructive parody of democracy”, he claims.

On Sunday morning we were invited to have Yoga with him and other Kullu people, also a new Yoga teacher has just came from Rajastan. Here we were, at 5.30 am flexing bodies and squirting lungs. The last exercise – stand up as a dog and whilst breathing in and leaning back upwards, laugh laugh laugh!

I went there on Monday, and Today as well. We great our guru by sayng “Om G”. I You still remember “Bro G”?! There are a few differences between two concepts, as ”Om G” helps to stretch one’s tendons and happiness whilst “Bro G” speaks Bronx.

Yesterday we had the biggest carnage party ever! Wait, what’s the Latin equivalent for vegetarian carnage? Herbage. For 70 Rs I ate like a king, leaving two extra chapattis for a cow outside. Today I’m drinking Re-hydratation Salts solutions J

Anine is feeling even worse, as she had a fever even before yesterday. We aren’t visiting any institutions today, but tomorrow we’ll go to Kaleyhli and continue the skit preparations. I went there the day before, but as long as both Anine and Paramita couldn’t show up, we watched an incredible nature documentary series “Life” by BBC. This afternoon kids saw a chameleon shooting out its sticky tongue at the praying mantis in Madagascar and Komodo dragons hunting down a...buffalo. Shortly afterwards evolutionary discussion followed, driven by those keen to discuss the adaptations of reptiles and amphibians.

When the sun went down at 6.30, I was challenged for a game of badminton by Raj Mohan. I bit his dust.

How should we get back to Bashing? How to strengthen the connections with Bhrat Bharati and Blind school? Tonight I’ll try finish Bashing profiles, despite the fact that we aren’t allowed to fund raise for their cause. I missed my Princes, her soft skin, tender touch and smart ideas, which are the necessary attributes for each self respectful princess. But mine is special, I have no doubts about it!

Sunday 19 September 2010

Lunch with Paramita, expulsion from Bashing and this morning’s Yoga

On 17th we came to Paramita’s house. We agreed to have a lunch first, afterwards leaving time t finalize the script and bring it to Bashing for a tryout.

Although being an upper middle class family woman, she cooks outside (gas is too expensive!), on the most peculiar degenerate of what is known as the European barbeque. Recipe as follows: a few stones placed in a circle, fume collector, finalizing into a tall pipe with a roof on top. Her house maid puts a thick metal bowl on the stones and cook trout with masala, dal and ladyfingers. Paramita is Bengali, so fish commonly ends up on a table in her house, just as well as mutton and chicken.

A pressure cooker is exhaling hot vapor – less than 15 minutes and rice is ready. I remember, my grandmother , with a species name of Homo Sovieticus, was explaining me, Homo Post-Sovieticus, the dangers and cons of “rusky made pressure cooker”. It exploded often enough in her, her neighbors and their friends of friends’ kitchens, to create a popular mistrust in it all around the country J

There I was, now a man, facing that smoldering steel volcano. And God bless the pressure cookers around the world for a g/food reason – stuff inside tastes delicious. Paramita served us first, and then she ate a humongous plate. Her daughter, 6, came back from Cambridge school a few minutes later and we watched her previous school videos. Children of all age and undoubtedly rich parents were dancing and shaking their “budies” together with Akon and Beyonce. “Vanity fair”, a foreigner might say, but rich schools’ shows were always pompous and dry in content.

Later on we presented our script to the kids in Kalheli. They didn’t know how to read English! Haha, we will adopt a dinosaur of education – memorizing J Money for the trip is organized, Paramita will work on clothes, make up - we’ll make it. So far so good.

On 18th we finally got expelled from Bashing..by its own board! These guys who fund the orphanage appeared on several occasions previously and were curious how British were we, and what on earth brought us there to teach English, Geo and initiative games. This time they told us politely “Do not come here again”. We cried we called Ankit. Wegave them the last lesson on Geographic orientation and waters. I sang them Lithuanian basketball anthem “Ant kalno murai, joja Lietuviai..” and Anine spun them with “Uncle Jakob”. That is it. We aren’t allowed to meet them again, and what hurts the most – absence of any reasonable arguments against our teaching.

We were rippedof in our traditional eating place again. I fully understand that the bargaining foreigners look stupid, but to see others paying 30Rs and then being asked 60Rs reminds me of…racism . Splendid and pure as milk – people who’sskin is “gora” (white) are being mistreated quite badly. Evidently I’m struggling with some self expression, let it be.

Listen, today we wokeup at 0530 and went to the morning prayer and yoga followed. A real yoga guru is visiting Kullu for 7 days, so we couldn’t miss the chance. Previously I had Yoga with my Mom, but today’s experience was beyond comparison. For 100 minutes we breathedand flexed. Afterwards I felt relaxed by the dopamine. I promise to go to yoga each morning from now on.

Later on, we met Das. Das’s cook is a gifted artist. When reading Gunesekera’s “Reef” I pondered how could the food deserve so much attention. Now I have tasted and loved it. Das promised to buy us a flight to Sai Baba’s city. We’d spend 1 week in South India and witness Sai Baba’s miracles first hand J

Saturday 18 September 2010

2010 Hashish and other earthly addictions


Time is passing too quickly… nights follow days and vice versa. Have I run out of time? Too much time spent dreaming about the future. Let’s get back to reality.

Why am I so confused? Because Flash games rule!!! For the last few days Modestas have been trying to unlock level 19 of the Dog Fight 2. No excuses, but those WWII fighter plane games are addictive as hashish. And the latter one is getting closer to us every day. It’s being grown in our garden, processed in the kitchen conditions, sold straight here on the street. In the morning I’m being awakened by an unmistakable marijuana odor!

Yesterday we visited Papu, a crazy guy who’s wife is long dead. He lives by himself and “grows stuff” for his own “consumption”. However, we didn’t smoke hash, instead, made Italian coffee. I brought the Machinatta, Illy ground coffee and Anine. What else would Papu expect from me? So the coffee was too sweet, and he didn’t even try it. I remembered my long forgotten (2 weeks) addiction, oh pretty caffeine molecules! The very same guy likes speaking with us too much, thus living up his own addiction. However, apart from speaking, we watched two movies: Bollywood one and Scary Movie first part. Guess which one was Papu’s favorite.

Today we finally managed to get to the drug de-addiction centre and do a 1 hour session. I will tell you the way this organization works. There are around 45 men in there, who were all addicted to either Alcohol, Hashish, Heroin or Carabin (marijuana). Some of them were poly-addicts, for instance, the youngest inhabitant, Jarekesh 15. The oldest is 55.

Even the director and chefs were all once addicted. Usually, their families themselves bring their sick men to this institution, telling them a white lie instead of the truth. White lie typically is “They will detoxicate you and take some urine samples”. Reality, however, is 6 months of Yoga, Hinduism, no drugs. All f them went cold turkey, alcoholics were given no booze and hashish lovers were deprived of joints. Now they tell us it takes around 1 month to “get in touch with oneself” i.e. become content with the fact that proper treatment is a must. And so a few people stay even longer, like our English speaker, whose name’s vanished from my head now. He speaks like guys speak in Aberdeen!

They are insanely polite and different men, what an age and social class and race difference. Yet all are equal in their fight against drugs. This time we played “human knot” and conveyer belt”. The former being too boring and latter – a smashing success. Everyone wanted to have a go on their friends’ hands, unfortunately time was our mentor again. After each session, a bell rings. They say a prayer and leave. So we left as well.

Enough addictions for tonight.

Wednesday 15 September 2010

Hitchhiking and other thoughts






We love hitchhiking in India! Would it be a 1000 colored TATA truck, white Toyota pickup or a three wheeled symbol of the country - Rickshaw. And, don't catch yourself saying Indian auto industry is backward, as TATA owns Jaguar and Daewoo and sell more passenger cars in India than any other company.

Tata buses are our favorite, although a reasonably expansive (20 euro cents per 2 hour trip) alternative. One can see a few uncovered holes in the cockpit, bus driver's say its good for gas convection within the vehicle, for us - another way to break a leg.

Steering wheels are big and clumsy. Pedals are naked aluminium. Each truck, car, rickshaw or motorcycle has a message on its back "Blow Horn" and "Use dipper at night". Overtaking a car without a horn signal - equivalent of provoking a traffic accident in Europe. Thats why majority of buses and truck have their horn signal pads moved away from the steering wheel, straight on the panel, otherwise there would be no time holding the steering wheel, as the urge to "Blow" occurs.

Two days ago we hitchhiked from Kaleyhli orphanage with a Rickshaw pick up. In other words, there was a driver just up the front wheel, and a huge spacious truck behind. The roads were as bumpy as driving on a mine field. Anine was constantly complaining of feeling cold down her bum, yet the problem was resolved at least for me - rickshaw's engine was just below the truck. Honestly, after a 10 km ride in this thing I felt like a beef steak.

Beef steak... My pleasurable life long friend. Why'd You abandon me now?! Throughout the OZ, we'd often say "prisoner 204553, convicted..", and now it's my turn to be convicted on September 1st for entering Indian borders. Sentence - 6months without meat and..without the possibility of parole!

At a time, we could see the most magnificent view: valley, starting with a violent brown and dirty river (overall it looks like Chai!), rising itself upon mountains, whereas thousands of years ago glaciers have formed their walls. The sky was full of stars, and so were mountains - little houses, advantaged with electricity. We couldn't decipher heavens from earth, and that filled my heart with warmth (my bum had already been warm thanks to the engine).


Yesterday, we hitchhiked separately. And surprise surprise, although Anine started the first, I was back as it turned out to be 40 minutes earlier. She stopped a dirty Toyota pick up, with three guys. Could it be even worse? :) Apparently, they let her go by the bridge, which was a few km from our crib - she walked back. Meanwhile, I got a ride with a guy who spent 6 months in total in Norway. He could speak some Norwegian as well.

Listen, nobody happens to know where Lithuania is, hence the word "Russia" appears often in our conversations. However, all of them know Norway. Norway invests, Norway volunteers, Norway charity, Norway good tourists, Norway friends, Norway....

By the end of the day there were two of us, me and the Bronze medal. I can't believe I played cricked on the exactly same time when Lithuania was cruising over Serbia to fetch the World Championship medal!!! Let the basketball Gods forgive me :]

Sunday 12 September 2010

September 11 Anniversary and Kayeli

I can’t believe our friendship is celebrating its first birthday. Unfortunately, we’ll have to wait to blow the candle on a cake until March. I have never felt so sure about my love to Her.

The night before I felt nervous, spent an hour walking those narrow streets of Kullu, until Anine joined me. We went to the West and standing on a bridge saw the sturdy and fuming river.

In Kayeli, we taught some more theatre and initiative exercises. Conveyer belt being the star of the afternoon, yet it was difficult to handle 30 boys. We watched tom&jerry in the end, and.. half of them passed away. So be it, we said, for the next time, prepare yourself for some hardcore theatre action as “save girl child” was coming.

Paramita, a local volunteer and a woman of many talents, got us in her car together with Joy (husband). Their house is cozy and spacious, common postcard from the upper middle class album. Their single daughter was beautiful and young. Their family moved from Kalkuta a year ago, as her husband was assigned a new position in Ferment (he’s responsible for vitamin D3 production).

We talked about women’s position in Indian society and prepared a raw script. A woman is giving birth, she’s surrounded by her family, uncles, grand parents and husband. Baby’s born and that’s a girl, and there comes the reproaches from the family for having a child. Then Grandfather reminds that Lakshmi has come to their house (goddess of prosperity), and Lakshmi appears together with Saraswati (knowledge). They’re both ladies, and as the argument unfolds, the girl child is given a chance to live and study.

Paramita’s family radiated with hospitality and understanding, we wish all the best for them. They also took as home by their car and we ate at our “restaurant”.

Now listen, we didn’t get ripped off J

That evening I watched Kynodontas (dog tooth). The night before – Sunset blvd. I have enough time for everything, but from now on I will concentrate on verbal Hindi, which sounds melodic and colourful.

September 10. Geography and tunnels


Bashing bashing bashing – our pride and head ache. On Friday we gave them a lesson on time: days/months/time prepositions and intended to have some geography for the first time. For me geography is more than a game, hence satisfaction soon to be guaranteed.

Children were phenomenally good at the “time” topic, at least verbally. They would spit out tongue twisting months without any endeavor. Yet, when it came to writing, even the elder ones like Kamlesh,14, or Monika,15. By the time we came across the easy “June and July”, three kings stepped on orphanage threshold. They were men from a huge company which constructs mountain tunnels. They are extremely rich people, and were carrying sweets, cookies with butter, potato chips. They gave this food to each of them, and for the first time I saw two things: firstly, our children so calm and submissive, secondly, charity as it happened.

I raised many doubts in my head, why would they bring sweets and potato chips to the kids, and ask them to eat it instantaneously. Truly, kids do not have sweets on regular basis their diet consists of dal (beans), chapattis (bread), pulav (rice), sabji (vegetable curry).

Guests were interested in Anine a lot, for two reasons. She was a woman to begin with, and blonde as well. No explanations needed, kids were disturbed by the amount of food. I call it “being high n sugar”, so they became extrememly energetic and agile. We had to play some old school violent games like red rover or cat&mouse. Games are rough (you know boys), tears are common.

Afterwards, we showed them a world political map. Surprise, they couldn’t tell us where India was. They couldn’t tell us Russia, nor the US, nor China. It was their first but definitely not the last one encounter with maps. Now it’s clear, that in their public there is little initiative to teach global awareness. Conversely, ne could argue that the whole country is generally bad at geography. Even when meeting some elder men of pristine reputation I feel awry once statements like “I believe German similar to French” or “knowing that Britain has a land border with Europe, how do they unknot the right-left traffic difference once driving from Spain to Bitain?”. ;D I could collect more quotes of similar relevance, but time is sparse. In the end, we still have a lot of things to teach them about European continent, whereas India is too much a “continent of its own” at the moment.

Das (tunnel company man) invited us for a dinner on Sunday.

Next time we’ll bring two maps t Bashing, and our evening was spent planning for “Save girl child India” skit.

Friday 10 September 2010

September 9

Throughout the last few days we kept on working with Bashing, established contacts with Grady (a guy who’s bringing bicycles from the US) and previous volunteers. Yet, I felt like I’d left my soul in the fridge.

At Bashing kids were too distracted and preoccupied to learn, so we played cricket. I’ve never done it before, and surely never play this game again. It’s tedious to say the least, and for the most of time only two people engage into it. Snobbish piece of heritage from those times, I thought. Conversely, Basketball, is one of the coolest and least snobbish games ever. It’s as athletic as a sport can get. I wonder how’s Lithuania performed yesterday against Argentina.

On Thursday we had to visit drug de-addiction centre and Kayeli orphanage. We went to the central bus station which resembles a colorful masquerade and asked one of the drivers for Jhiri. As it turned out we were being taken to Ghiri which is 2 hours drive from Kullu. Sad. After being ridiculously late for the centre, we opted to come back to Kayeli on time.

A cute pickup stopped for us, there were 8 kids inside, and two funny smiling guys in front. They showed some zig zags when asked whether they went to Kullu. As gullible as we are, instead of going to Kullu, we went to the…skies. The pick-up was driving kids who live n a hug mountain back from school. We spent 1 hour elevating ourselves through serpentines. God, these panoramas are astonishing. And roads are narrow enough to sparkle frightful hallucinations about us rolling down the road. I’ll ask Anine for some pics, that we’ve taken that day.

I always wondered what brings people so high up the mountains. Here you have a powerful river and a patch of fertile land by your neighborhood, and yet, you ascend further. Some of those girls in the truck were astoundingly pretty, like gemstones on a crown of mountains.


So we went to Kayeli and met them kids. Compared to Bashing where anarchy is their bread, Kayelis were modest and well behaved. A married old couple is running this place, and believe it or not – they run it smooth. This Saturday we’ll start planning our skit for Save the girl child and for now we played some bonding games.

Guys liked it in general, yet the elder ones were slightly bored. I raised my voice a lot. And they would listen. I like it.

Once back in Kullu, we were ripped off. At the fruit stand, at restaurant, at staples shop. We felt sad. Last day we paid 35 Rs for two half plates of “lady fingers” and Dal, and now it inflated to 60Rs. Kindly asked, assistant gave us a discount to 55 Rs. Equality and patience, next time we’ll say “Sahi sahi ret lagama” – “Tell me the real price”! I can’t believe that Lithuania, although being at the back foot of Europe is still cheaper than India ;D

One week in Kullu, and life is turning mundane, except the daily activities with children.

Yesterday, I did the garbage the first time. Instructions go like this:

1. 1. Take the trash

2. 2. Go a few quartiles away

3. 3. Look out for cows.

4. 4. Feed the garbage to them. ;D




Tuesday 7 September 2010

September 6

I woke up at 4am and felt like my stomach was having a rollercoaster ride. I flipped my body over and the uneasy feeling stopped.

Once I woke up at 7.30 and took a shower, I tried to wake Anine as well.
But she had absolutely serious problems. I didn't feel well either. So I
went to the prayer alone.

There he was the school priest, dressed in white bearing a red spot on his forehead. He started by cleaning his body: mouth, hands and ears. So did
I. There was a really old man next to the fireplace as well. throughout
the ceremony he would sing holly mantras and pour a mix of spices into the fire. The procedure was overwhelming, yet, I couldn't read Sanskrit nor
sing that well.

Afterwards, he gave me a handful of sweet rice, God's food.

At 10 we were supposed to represent our mission in the very same school.
no previous volunteers have ever worked there, hence it should have been
an ice-breaking experience.

Once again, Anine was feeling sick, but I didn't want to postpone it.
Afterwards, I would only have to represent our countries, and I knew
Norway quite well.

And here I was, standing in front of a 150 uniformed students crowd. They
finished a drum march and headmaster told them an inspiring speech. The
Indian national anthem has begun but by then Modestas was rather melting,
I felt my soul and consciousness leaving the body. It was too late to
retreat, but I told the headmaster I felt sick. He responded angrily:
"Please!", apparently the anthem was more important. Sickness took an upper hand and I grabbed my backpack and rushed down the stairs. My sight
narrowed and went green. I started stumbling over my feet and wonder how
could I have reached my bed. I collapsed in it and did not move for at
least an hour.

Me and Anine were down to nothing, we could barely afford wasting energy on speaking and agreed to sleep, drink water, and wait for Ankit to come from work, so we could call him in and ask for help. We called him at 1500, and were asked to wait for the evening.

Then Panki came with a doctor and he told us to rest and drink water and
some Oral rehydratation salts. So I wrapped myself into the bed cover
sweated a lot and fught that stomach infection ;D

No sooner than 2000 I felt better, jumped into thermies and got some
fruits from a shop. Later, called the Love of my live and never felt that
happy to have somebody loving me so much!

All in all, we spent the whole day in our beds and will have to catch up
with the project.

September 5



We had an honour to participate in Ankit grandfather’s funeral ceremony. We came over at 12, being slightly late, because the ceremony has apparently began. After a few minutes of hesitation we came inside and sat in the corner. After a moment Ankit moved us towards the door of a room, as it turned out later, where the body was placed!

Chaivala served us the most amazing beverage ever, it tasted like a mix of rosewater, salt, sugar, pepper and stardust.

Ankit's father was crowned as a new leader/king of their tribe, so Ankit
had to carry around a white shawl which was touched by every person in the ceremony. By doing so, family members accepted him as a new leader.

Another interesting fact, majority of family lived in Kullu, though it had more that a 1000 members. People are really family bonded in this part of
India.

Finally, the long awaited lunch followed. We washed our hands and were
taken to a huge room decorated with yellow and red shawls. In the front of the chamber men were sited, women - next to the entrance. We sat with
women. Actually, there were no chairs, nor dishes or tools. All we had
were three-leaves-well-sewn-together and a mat below our bums.

There were 2 people serving all guests. Firstly, they would pour rice on
our leaves with their hands. Then some tasty vegetable/bean/potato mix
would follow. Now, I would mix rice and hot meal together with my right
hand and put it on my first three fingers whilst letting the thumb thrust
it into my mouth. God, we had so much fun! Food was tasty:) In total, I
had no less than 6 "updates" to my "plate" and was the last person to
leave!

Having eaten so much, we met a headmaster of a school adjacent to Ankit's
house. He promised to check if Bashing orphanage has enough school tools.
Also, the school priest gave us Sandhaya- Agnihotra book, with holy Vedas
and mantras. He kindly invited us to come tomorrow morning for a prayer.

We didn't do much for the rest of that day.

Sunday 5 September 2010

September 4


Morning

Our morning routine usually starts at 1000, though I always try to wake up earlier. Earlier, to take a cold shower, turn on the water boiler so Anine could take a warm one, turn on the kettle so we could have hot water for our breakfast - Chadbury's Bourn vita ++ (malt based powder) for me and Quaker's (religious affilation again) oat meal for Anine. I tried latter on several occasions, it still tastes like a horse meal.

Now listen, we like writing letters/blogs in the morning, so we couldreflect upon the past day. Besides it gets so hot and humid outside, that we do not leave our room until 12(3)00 and start planning our sessions. Otherwise we could do it in the room, but the possibility of having Ankit's wireless is too tempting.

Important notice, the abovementioned routine is only a few days old!

Still, since the early morning we arebeing awaken by the construction workers/loud streets but ears get used to that easily and we fall asleep again. Sad moments occur, once we remember hw much help our students need, instead of a morning prayer, I try to sketch a plan for today's class. Those early thoughts are always productive.

2nd visit to Bashing

This time we planned to review the ABC, put up some colourful letters on a string and hang it on the ceiling, so they could remember how towrite capital/lower case letters. It was obvious from the last time, that young ones couldn't write properly. Also, we planned to put 2 sheets with numbers from 0 to 20 and their spelling, so by this time they could introduce themselves with their name and age. For that purpose we planned to teach them some formal meeting vocabulary (Good afternoon./What is Your name?/My name is./See You soon). Finally the colours would follow. We would hang the sheets with 10 basic colors on the ceiling as well and ask them to remember it for the next time.

Unfortunatelly, we haven't remembered all of their names, I was ashamed by this fact and for the next day I will do so eagerly. Yet, the session went good, it was easy to get their attention. After the first 40 minutes we went outside to play some physical games for 20 minutes and came back for 30 more minutes for a final, colors session.

What really touched my heart was a little boy Nanakchand, 8. He had waterish wounds on his hands and none of the other boys dared to touch him throughout the games. So it was me, Anine and Sarla who held him and we still had fun. Apparantly, there will be a British volunteer doctors visitng them next month. Maybe they even leave a first aid kit there. Which is in desperate need. The ridiculity of this situation sums up in a fact, that's next month will the majority of them will be seing a doctor for a first time. It breakes my heart and tenses up the mind. We ough to help them.

Back to the classes, there were two obvious groups of students. The ones who managed our class material easily and ones (youngsters) who did not get it too much. So for the next time we have to find a way for maximizing teaching by either splitting them in a group, asking the elder ones help to teach young ones, or splitting a group throughout the session into two and assigning tasks of varied difficulty.

In general session went well, as kids were smiling by the end of it. On our way back with a pick up truck which we have hich hiked from Bashing we had some hard feelings as well. We should replan our sessions, so that advanced one could step further.

Straight after we had another fantastic dinner. This time we had vegetable balls and mantra smth (cheese swimming in a sour milk) and potatoes and asparagus beans with onions and 4 chapatis in total.

It has just started raining, so love of my live listen to Let it Rain by Eric Clapton, which I happened to be listening now.

Back to yesterday I saw my sweetheart again and will surely meet her today. I wish she was here as well, as Indiahas enough beauty for more than 1 person :) This evening we had a push up and sit up and leg press session with Anine, we promised each opther to exercise before going to sleep and keep in shape.

I fell asleep easily and was waiting for a lunch at Ankit's place, which commemorate his father's death anniversary. We were kindly invited.



















Saturday 4 September 2010

From Ankit to Bashing



So, on the morning of 2nd September we finally met Ankit. His family's one of the oldest in Kullu, its history stretching back for centuries. His family shares a huge mansion with his brother Panki and his family as well, their parients, and some causins. Family units are perceived differently in their culture. Majority f everyday decisions are made by the family quorum, including partners for their sons. It makes sense, because as long as all family lives together they undisputedly pick the best wife from a different family. Women rarely leave the domestic environment which consists of child care, cooking (God, they're good at it!) and crafts. Men bring money for the family.

Ankit, is a special kind of guy, who owns a tourism business (drafting, camping on the local mountains), works in his own tourism college, runs several charity projects. It seems as if he can barely find enough time to sleep!

Back to our business, ankit offered us some Chai with a splash of milk of course! And explained that the first priority now - finding a shelter over our heads. So all three of us went around the clumsy, colorful and jammed streets of Kullu and bargained with sever "room owners". One of the possiilities was to accomodate in a beautiful but tiny hotel room for 9,000 rupees a month. However, we had another option which turned out to be cheaper, 5,500, yet slightly mouldy and dusty.

Our master, that's how we call him now, rented us a room with 2 windows on the first floor of his house. He has a big family, and a big belly which makes him look rather comic. We would see him and his wife every evening instructing us how to lock the doors properly and use as little electricity aspossible :)

Preparing for living.

First thing we did with our room - removing a huge and mouldy dust carpet. We could immideately feel the difference. Then, me and Anine unscrewed the bed and separated it into two pieces and placed them each in the corners. Hard cleaning timesfollowed, althuogh basic tools for that were scarse ;D Finally we managed to mop it properly, wind the bed covers and the place was ready to live in.

Bashing orphanage.

It is the poorest orphanage in Kullu, in orderto get there you shuld take a bus ride for 20 minutes towards Manali (people say itsthe most beautiful place on Earth). there are 12 boys and only 1 girl residing there. They're housed in a two-room, two-floor house. On the first one, there is a blackboard, on the second one they should be sleeping.

As we have leared by now, their ages range from 7 to 15. I will never forget, when we first met them, and they started touching our feet in a respectful way and saying "namaste" and "Hello, my name is.." Right from the beginning we felt that this place should be our priority, as so they knew so little English and the orphanage was run by two local volunteers. One of them, Sarla, 21, has been working there for 5 years for free. She's an amazing woman. Bashing orphanage is the last resort of freedom, pure feelings and human dedication in this planet. In fact, every smile of those beautiful children warm your heart to heavens.

We talked with Sarla andother lady about the time schedule, and agreed to come to Bashing at least times a week for two ours each day and a few more on Sundays.


Cleaning the bathroom.

Our bathroom looked like a sad place to live in. Dark, mouldy, dusty and chocking with stains of all kinds. So, me and Anine went to the "western kind of shopping mall" and got some "chemistry". It took us as long as 2 hours to wipe off all this dirt. The other day our master's wife paid us a visit and was warmly surprisded to see our bathroom renewed.

It was certainly a happy evening to us, as we went to eat in one of three recommended places. We had chapatis with Do (beans) and lady fingers which Hindi name I'm not aware of. Most importantly, I was adviced not to try any meat for at least 2 weeks, or even better - no meat at all. It may sound strange, but this country is basically vegetarian. They have enough protein from beans, asparagus, soya and many others which I'm yet to taste. Now we have a water boiler, so hard boiled eggs will spice up the menu.

Just before midninght we started planning our first classin Bashing. Frm th eprevious volunteers we knew that managing 13 children who've limited social experinces will be difficult. We agreed to take up strict roles in the beginning, and continue with rewards if necessary. We'd start with an ABC and some numbers. We predicted that younger kids might not be able to master the alphabet or write their name and age.

Afterwards, when the lights went off, and it was our first night, we talked about our beloved ones. tears would follow. It was difficult to accept the separation and loneliness. I have missed Alex down to my bone marrow. After knowing her so well I feel "hounted" by our experiences all the time. Even more, it seems that as I am experiencing challenges and happy moments in India, my beloved one feels them as well. When I find myself surrounded by beautul, altruistic and spiritual people, I want her to feel my positive emotions. I know how much she would love it here! These six months will fly as fast as a mountain falcon. We'll be THERE again, FOREVER.

At some point I wished Anine good night, Sov God, and fell asleep myself. I fell asleep, Alex fell asleep and Kullu fell asleep, all three in my heart at the same time. "Beautiful" I thought.


September 3rd

We woke up slowly that day. I was the first one, at around 10. I turned on the water boiler for Anine, as she takes showers in the morning and I do it with a cld water in the evening ;D We hadn't had a kettle by then, so for breakfast we ate an infamous Lithuanian blood chocolate bars. Fr the same reason we had been buying water from the shops, as we couldnt boil it. Inadvertedly we used up too much of it the previous day, so the morning felt like hangover. After breakfast, we went to ankit's place whereas his brother Panki would take us to Kaljeli where a drug addiction centre was.

We met a few of them, and they seemed really happy people. Drug addiction is quite unusual in India, as so many people are spiritual and avoid spoiling their lives. And as the head of the center explained, addicts are treated with traditional medicine and meditation and lots of patience. As for us, he adviced to focus on quality and mental games, which we could do for 2 hours each Thursday. This is going to be a serious task and hard preparation should follow.

Afterwards we went to Kayeli orpahange. It has a way more resources compared to Bashing, and children were moderately fluent in English. The head of orphanage, a happy middle aged Indian woman with a red spot on her head, asked us to concentrate on a skit comedy act. The theme - Female children equality. And the stakes are really high, as she emphasized that last year the previous volunteers helped the children to win a second place prize. Apparently we are expected to do even more! ;)

So, after these two institutions I was overwhelmed by the vast range of activities we shall take up in the following months. And yet, there were only 3 visited and at least 2 more remaining, including a blind school.

Panki drove us home, and being late for 2 hours we rushed towards the Bashing orphanage. it would be our first class with those 13 little angels.

So we took a local colorful Tata bus (these buses are cultural phenomena themselves and I will have a separate post for them). there were more than enough people inside, and I could barely breathe. Next to us there was a lady with a young baby, brestfeeding it. The bus was inexorelably crowed and I pondered how could she cope with the baby. In less than 20 minutes our bus stopped but we were slightly unsure where to leave so we opted for anther stop. It was only then when we saw the orphanage being passed by our bus! So, we had to walk for 10 minutes in an extraordinary green mountain valley until we reached Bashing.

Children saw us from a distance and accumulate by the age of a fence marking orphanage territory. They were smiling humainly and waving hands at us. A few more "Namaste" and "Bring us to your teacher" and we met Sarla. She was surprised to see us that late, but still gathered all kids into the classroom.

And here we were, two greenhorns, standing in front of 14 people hoping to fulfill their expectations. We startedwith a general introduction and alphabet folowed. The difference in their knowledge was staggering, usually the elders knowing the basic aEnglish and youngsters could barely write their names. After an hour or so, we let them loose outside to play Mingle Mingle. Unfortunately they hurt each other often, and tears were common. honest and unselfish tears.

After 15 mins or so we got them back into the class, asked them each to write their names and ages, and draw auto-portrait, so we could remember theirnames easily. Beforehand we'd bought sketch pens, and this really attracted their interest, unfortunately, by the end of the session we had take them back with our selves, otherwise it would get consumed in no time ;D

finally, we asked each kid to stand with its name and portrait, so we could take apicture. Picture taking made them extremely happy. We concluded our visit by a polite "namaste" and my heart was happy. I hope their hearts were as happy as ours. I gave Anine the biggest hug ever and stepped into the night (by 19.00 its absolutely dark) to catch a bus. We were sweaty, exhausted and satisfied. I wanted to hold Your hand and let You feel that beauty.

Kettle

Later atnight we set off to getch a kettle as gas stove seemed too complicated and unecessary. We found a nice one for 800 rupees, of course not without Panki's help. LAter that evening we boiled noodles, water and Chai.

It was one of the best days of my life.


Falling asleep

For the second night in a row I have relinguished myself of tears and feelings. We talked about the College and love and what makes us so happy here in Kullu. So, today we got to know new orphanage and an addicition center, got a kettle, fresh water resources and most importantly got inspired by Bashing.

Friday 3 September 2010

Trip to Ankit's house

This time I'm writing, I'm sitting in my in Kullu. Our journey to Kullu wasn't that easy easy though.

On the morning of August 31st I left mymother crying alone and left for the airport. Driving with my father felt awkward, at thosemoments silence suits us the best.
Listen, he calmly waited for meto check in at Riga airport and just before the security check burt into tears as well. I wish we had spent more time and we less afraid of each other. Fear.

I had to change flights in Munchen. Why would th rest of the world have to follow British "Munich" instead?! Bravarian capital was ludacris, luxerious and well on its feet. One could smell self confidence and power in the air, see it in the archtecure or BMW's design. This city though only for 7 hours made my feel small.

Delhi, on the other hand, shined a limeligh upon me. I flew there with Lufthansa AirBus 360 - one of the biggest planes on earth. The flight itself was beautiful: comfy seats, free dinner, breakfast, wine and Jegger meister (as if it was real bargain). then at 7 local Delhi time which is GMT+5.30 I met Anine in the airport. She was dressed in a red cllege sweater, a red riding hood, I thought. Wedrank tea and decided how to spend the rest of our day until the bus to Kullu arrives.

firstly, we took a cab for 300 rupees from the airport to Delhi. The cab lacked everything :) Driver told us its been 35 years old, which made me feel confindent abuot this british car - if it had 35 years to break apart and didn't do so, then it should last forever! Driving. It was different. Every truck and some cars in Delhi hav an inviting message on their trunks "Blow the horn". Unsurprisingly everyone does so. It seems that's the way traffic worksin India. One has to make shure that a carin front of him is aware of his presence. Hence you blow the horn and make a fast manouvre. No traffic accidents of injured people - a controlled chaos, surely it is!

the city is preparing for the Commonwealth games. It's dirty, rough and scary. No one should expect to find India's miracles there. We trusted our luggage to a guy on the street, he said he would keep an eye on it for 8 hours. After a few minutes we realized it wasn't such a good idea even though he worked for our bus company. but pulling the luggage on robust streets and agressive traffic would make our life radiculous, so we got a rickshaw. usually there would barely be enough space for two people on the back seat, but we managed to bring our heavy backpacks and 50kg of luggage as well. My left leg was sticking out and I would get adrenaline kicks every time a car or motorcycle overtook us :)

People persistently wanted to make friends with us :) Firstly, by bringing us to a "fine India restaurant, which make you stomach very very happi". So we went to one of them with a red furniture and walls and mcdonald's typeof Indian food pictures. Food was tasty and had to many flavours for my tongue to distinguish of. We stayed there for 6 hours. The guys didn'd like that and tried to cook us up, literally, by turning of the AC. We struggled at 35C but stayed there until more guest came and the magic air conditioning was on again.

After the last monsoon shower (people told us that the monsoon was leving the country), we went towards the bus station. did i just say a bus station? What I meant is a simple street side. We knew our bus company name and adress and even more, yet the bus got delayed by 2 hours and we'd been storing our luggage in 4 diffrenet buses until the driver (after a few minutes call to his boss) would kick us out and ask to go to the other side of the street. So we went. And on and on.

Then we finally got seated and had to pay extra for a luggage boy, who would kindly take an eye on our stuff for 40 rupees :) Apparently these extras apply only to the tourists! Besides, the trip is long enough for someone to borrow our stuff.

By the time we reached Kullu, I'd been seated for 14 hours:) We certainly had a few stops to get flame-cooked corns. The roadsides do not sleep in India. This country doesnt sleep at all. Once the bus comes to a halt, salesmen with chips, coke and corns rush in. They give You extra attention for a fair skin.

We met an interesting German woman. She is famousback home for her sculptures and her husband Sebastian is a leading mahematician. She is really proud of herself and herchildren. German proud :)Every european visiting India has its own expectations. Young gangs of rich British kids look for pot or hashish, Germans take pictures and behave. Everyone is fascinated by the country.

Soon we'll reach Kullu, but first we drive on a narrow road alongside the kullu Valley. It subjects us to the most astonishing panorama I have ever seen: decidous trees, humangus slopes and whitewater bustling Kullu river. Due to its geographical exclusion, the valley has preserved the most diverse and unique Indian culture one could expect to find. I'm anxious to experience it!

Listen, on the road sides a gang of monkeys greeted us. I have never seen so many monkeys in my whole life :)

We have finally reached Kullu. at least that's what the luggage boy told us. We stepped outside - a rush of warm, humid, almost suffocating air hit our throats. This is it, we've left the comfort shell of a fine Volvo bus and had to fin our way to Ankit's house. He is our coordinator and should introduce us to the schools and orphanages. The rest will be upn our shoulders.

I had lots of ideas in my head at the moment, but all of a sudden we found ourselves surrounded by those cute little children from Kullu. they we tuching our clothes and playing with the luggage handle :) They were pure beauties and smileys. A taxi driver asked us where shall we go and we called Ankit. He started bargaining for us. Apparently the bus has dropped us 15 km short of our final destination. So we went with a taxi. The city of a 100 thousand seemed really stretched out alongside the road. The traffic intensed, we knew it wasthe centre and after a left hand turn we got to Ankit's gates.

A cow crossed our way and I touched its head. What a local beautie, these Indain cows are a way more couragious and agile compared to Lithuanian comrades which I happen to see every day.